We decided to leave the beach for a few moments on our last trip to the Philippines. Our destination: the Bogavilla Trail, Aninuan on the island of Mindora. From our hotel, it was a 20-minute walk.
Along the way, we picked up Mila. I'm guessing now she'd been following us since we left the hotel. She told us she wanted to be our guide. We didn't need a guide, as the way was clearly marked, but I asked her what the going rates were. She said: "How much will you pay?"
"100 pesos?" I answered. She rolled her eyes, so I doubled the rate and she was on board.
Along the way, we came to Lucy's Bridge. Historical and beautiful, it was the only bridge over the stream running adjacent the Bogavilla Trail. We soon learned to appreciate it, as we were required to cross the stream at least a dozen times. I was wearing flip-flops, not the wisest decision for a two-hour hike. Mila fished them out of the stream on more than one occasion.
Mila also bundled my child over the water several times. She's brought 11 offspring into this world, so it was second nature to her. She easily earned the 200 pesos we paid her, plus the tip.
Housing along the Bogavilla Trail. Life is pleasant in paradise.
Bogavilla Road, before becoming a trail: I've talked to other Western friends and we're roundly impressed by the upkeep of neighborhoods in the Philippines. Coming from Taiwan, I find this pride striking to say the least. Just to clarify, I was diving into my travel guide the first time I arrived in Taiwan as I had been educated to view Taiwan as a prosperous country. Looking at the surroundings coming in from the airport in Taoyuan my very first time, I couldn't believe my eyes. I didn't understand how rich people could live in such dilapidated buildings or let the landscape fall to such disrepair. When I asked the locals what was going on, the typical answer was as follows: we're going to retake the mainland - there's no need to waste our time or money on Taiwan. More recently, I've been told there's a concept that the home is a castle and anything outside it sucks. In all fairness, Taiwanese people are shaking the dust off this legacy and starting to reclaim their heritage, see lots of restoration of historical sites, park construction and what have you.
Fork in the path along the Bogavilla Trail.
A home and possibly business along the Bogavilla Trail in Mindoro, Philippines.
Here we are at the head of the Bogavilla Trail once again, at the Lucky Store.
There is a connection between Taiwan (and China) and Mindoro. Mindoro, the first major island due south of Luzon, has been on the Chinese compass since the 9th century. This is when trading between people of southern China and this island entered the books. There is museum in Puerto Galera, the major town on the northern part of the island, with vases from China dating back five centuries: http://www.flickr.com/photos/patrick_cowsill/6709732175/
On a more personal note, my grandfather was stationed in Mindoro during the Second World War. This is his record:
On June 8 [1945] we flew to Biak again, from Biak to Moratai, from Moratai to Zamboanga, from Zamboanga to Tacloban, and from Taclaban to Mindoro in the Philippines, about 200 miles SW from Manila. This was to be our permanent base for a while. We arrived at the beginning of the rainy season, and for the next couple of months, the rain fell in torrents. Our first tent had no floors, and the ground was usually muddy and [wet]. Everyone was trying hard to find some wood to make floors, but lumber just doesn't exist on that island. However, a couple of weeks later, another crew shipped out and we got their tent, and it had floors in it much to our satisfaction.
Our crew was assigned to the Jolly Rogers outfit, of the Fifth Airforce. Being assigned to the Jolly Rogers was considered a break. This outfit was well-known as it had done some spectacular flying. On June 20 we were formally initiated to the group. We stood around our plane, with skull and crossbones, the Jolly Rogers symbol, hung around our necks, while a colonel administered the oath. The oath was to the effect that we promised to fly every fourth day and lay in the sack at all other times. Anything for a little joke!
When we weren't flying, we could do just about as we wanted. There was a small town about 15 miles away, consisting of approximately 25 houses. This town also boasted a big sugar factory, which had been out of operation for some time, a small railroad and about four engines, a school-house, a jail, and a justice of the peace. Every thing was very primitive, and since there was less to do in town than at the field, I seldom left the field.
My grandpa did leave the field on missions though. I'm pretty sure that since he wrote this in late June, 1945, when he hit the Gang Shan (岡山) Airport in southern Taiwan on July 9, 1945, he did so from Mindoro, Philippines.
To get to the Bogavilla Trail, grab a tricycle at White Beach and head west along the main road. You're looking at about 20 minutes and 50 pesos.
To get to the Bogavilla Trail, grab a tricycle at White Beach and head west along the main road. You're looking at about 20 minutes and 50 pesos.